Removing metal firebox

Replacing your firebox on a regular basis is a wise practice, as it can keep you healthy as well as to ensure the health of the rest of your household. Chimneys that are cleaned at least once a year aid in the removal of hazardous creosote deposits and other toxins.

Substances such as fumes, soot, melted coal, hydrocarbons, gases and various minerals are left as residue. There are actually a number of ways to replace a firebox. One is to contact a mason, especially if you have an expensive fireplace. Although if your fireplace is a simple traditional one, then cleaning it will be something you can do on your own.

Whichever you choose is fine based on your personal preferences and experience level. Initially when you begin with firebox replacement you will need to first determine whether or not your firebox is prefabricated. A prefab firebox has firebrick replacement panels with technical specifications uniquely designed to its manufacturer. A masonry fireplace is built of brick or stone and mortar, whereas a pre-fabricated fireplace include a metal chimney and firebox. Both are equally safe when maintained well.

Brick fireplaces are more durable in the long run but pre-fabricated fireplaces are more cost friendly to install. The materials and labor costs of a customized masonry fireplace is also an option but makes it the more expensive option.

Costly because not only will it be custom-made to fit and suit your preferences and the design of the house but, with appropriate care, it will also last you and your family a lifetime.

A masonry fireplace can also handle hotter fires compared to that of a pre-fabricated one because it is made entirely from brick. Having said all that, pre-fabricated fireplaces will be a far more affordable choice and can be made of very good quality components. Pre-fabricated fireplaces are highly efficient. Most of the time, it is easier to clean than brick chimneys.

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The metal flues are also less likely to have a dangerous buildup of creosotes. Either way, the point is to have an annual cleaning of your firebox and Chimney Saver Solutions would be more than glad to help you with your concerns and address your needs in no time!

How to Remove a Prefab Fireplace

Schedule an appointment with us today! Home Navigation. CSIA and F. What is HeatShield? Pre-fab Fireplace Need to be Replaced? Blog Home Contact. Firebox Replacement.Consult with a professional chimney sweep to determine whether your chimney should be re-lined following a firebox replacement. Replacing a firebox can be dangerous, as the masonry inside the firebox may be load-bearing. Remember, if your firebox isn't built correctly you will have a fire hazard in your home. The firebox is an essential part of any fireplace, and replacing is difficult -- but it's possible.

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For the most part, fireboxes are cubic chambers that house the wood or other solid fuel source and the flames of the fire. Many fireboxes are made with masonry, even in fireplaces with wooden facades, because stone and brick withstand high amounts of heat.

Many fireboxes are lined with metal fireplace inserts that provide dependable fireproofing.

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Replacing a firebox can be a challenge, but it is much more affordable than replacing an entire fireplace. Examine your existing firebox to find out what it's made of.

The existing material will have a bearing on how you replace the firebox. Look for cracks in the firebox, which are indicators that it faces replacement. If the firebox is made with stone and mortar, gently scrape the walls with a trowel.

If the mortar crumbles easily, it's time to replace the firebox.

Can You Remove the Metal Firebox Safely?

Brace the existing firebox with 2-by-4s. Place one on each side of the firebox, jamming one end into the ceiling of the box and allowing the other end to press into the floor. Rake out the existing mortar in the firebox with a hand rake and discard it. Loosen mortar that does not crumble away easily with a hammer and crowbar. Smash stubborn mortar with the hammer to break it up, then pry it away with the crowbar. Working on one section of the firebox at a time, remove the old bricks or stones and put new stonework in its place.

Use heat-resistant mortar, known as fireclay, to seal gaps between bricks. Morgan is a professional freelance writer, with articles and blog posts appearing on dozens of sites. During her years of writing professionally, K.A rusty fireplace insert can detract from the look of your entire room, making it appear old and unkempt. Rust that's on the outer edges of the insert is easy to remove to help you restore the look of the insert. Inserts that are rusted on all sides require you to remove them to make the repairs, but you can restore the insert without the expense of calling in a professional.

Examine the insert to determine the location of all the rust. If rust is only visible in small areas of the front section of metal, it likely means that's the only place that's rusted. If the rust extends around the corner past your line of vision or if you see it inside the insert, you must remove the entire insert. Turn off the gas to the fireplace. Remove the logs, lava rocks and any other pieces inside the fireplace. Disconnect the gas line using an adjustable wrench.

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Find the screws or bolts holding the insert to the chimney by lying down and looking inside the insert. Remove the screws with a screwdriver or the bolts with a socket wrench.

Recruit a friend to help you pull out the insert. Put drop cloths on the hearth and floor, then ease the insert straight out of the fireplace hole. Set it on the drop cloths. Mix equal parts of water and baking soda in a bowl until it becomes a paste. Spread the paste onto the rusted areas of the insert and let it sit for about five minutes. Scrub off the paste with steel wool, which should remove the rust along with the paste.

Pour some distilled white vinegar in a bowl and dampen a cloth in the vinegar. Scrub the rusty areas with the cloth, then dip a steel wool pad in the vinegar and scrub them again. Alternate the cloth with the steel wool until the rust is gone.

Sand the metal with medium-grit sandpaper to remove any remaining rust and help the paint adhere. Paint the metal insert with a heat-resistant primer; it should be rated to at least 1, degrees Fahrenheit.

A zinc chromate primer is best because it helps prevent future rust, but make sure you buy a heat-resistant version. Let the primer dry. Paint the insert with a heat-resistant paint rated to use on fireplaces.

Let it dry, then add a second coat. Replace the insert, if you've removed it, once the second coat of paint dries. Slide it back into place, then reattach the screws or bolts inside.

Use the adjustable wrench to tighten the gas line back into place. Put the gas logs or other elements back inside the insert.If removing your firebox will create substantial damage to your frame or mantel, you may wish to consider simply cutting through the outside wall to remove the firebox.

Removal steps are the same, simply from the back of the firebox. Be sure to have a pressurized water extinguisher nearby since cutting metal can lead to stray sparks.

removing metal firebox

Fireplaces can be made from one of two basic methods -- masonry or prefabricated. Traditionally, fireplaces were built using brick, mortar or concrete.

More recently, fireplaces have been made out of metal and come prefabricated and ready to install. The firebox in a fireplace is the portion of the system where the fire is actually built. In a masonry fireplace, it is not separate from the rest of the system. In a prefabricated fireplace, however, the firebox is essentially just a metal insert that is connected to the frame or mantel of the fireplace as well as to the metal chimney. If you need to replace the firebox, you will need to disassemble and remove the existing firebox first.

Protect your surrounding work area before you begin working. Place drop cloths over any furniture that cannot be easily moved. Connect an exhaust fan on the top of the chimney. Removal of the firebox is likely to create a considerable amount of dust and smoke that you can remove by using an exhaust fan at the top. Remove or cut the fastenings that hold the firebox in place if possible.

If you are able to easily remove the fastenings, you should be able to pull the firebox directly out in one piece. Remove the damper if you are unable to get the firebox out in one piece. Cut the pins at each end with a Sawzall. Once the damper is removed, be sure to vacuum the smoke shelf with a shop vac and then stuff the heatform channels with fiberglass and tape the front of the damper closed with duct tape.

Create cuts in the firebox by starting in an upper corner and cutting down to the floor of the fireplace.

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Make a similar cut in the other corner. Continue making cuts by cutting horizontally across the firebox just below the damper and again a few inches from the floor. Remove each piece as you cut until you've removed the entire firebox.Log in.

removing metal firebox

Wiki Pages Latest activity. Media New media New comments Search media. Stove Reviews. Search Everywhere Threads This forum This thread. Search titles only. Search Advanced search…. Everywhere Threads This forum This thread. Search Advanced…. Thread starter newguy08 Start date Jan 1, JavaScript is disabled.

For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. Status Not open for further replies. Dec 5, 27 Southern Tier NY. I am looking to move my Avalon Olympic fireplace insert to another fireplace.

But the new location has a firebox which is not big enough to hold the vast size of the Olympic. Additionally, the firebox within this fireplace is completely shot, warped and has a hole within it. Has anyone removed the firebox safely and placed the stove within the cavity that remains?

I would install a SS liner and the surrounds panels while the cavity is completely masonry. The Avalon Olympic is sold as a wood burning stove in addition to being used as an insert. I have looked at how these types of fireboxes are built Hearform, Vestal Aire and it seems to me that this could work.

My only concern is the tile chimney, but they are not suppose to be supposed by the firebox.During these challenging times, we guarantee we will work tirelessly to support you. We will continue to give you accurate and timely information throughout the crisis, and we will deliver on our mission — to help everyone in the world learn how to do anything — no matter what. Thank you to our community and to all of our readers who are working to aid others in this time of crisis, and to all of those who are making personal sacrifices for the good of their communities.

We will get through this together. Updated: March 12, References. A fireplace insert is made to sit inside of a traditional masonry fireplace in order to help it heat more efficiently. To remove a wood-burning or electrical fireplace insert, first remove all of the trim from around the fireplace, including any brick, rockwork, or drywall that is covering the insert.

If there is any flashing nailed to the framing, remove the nails holding the insert in place, then disassemble as many parts of the insert as possible, including any pipes or vents which you might see. Pry the insert free with a crowbar, then slide it onto a piece of carpet so you can easily move it across your floor. For tips on disassembling a gas insert, read on! Did this summary help you?

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Article Edit. Learn why people trust wikiHow. This article was co-authored by our trained team of editors and researchers who validated it for accuracy and comprehensiveness. Together, they cited information from 19 references.

Fireplace Woodstove Insert Removal Explanation.

Learn more Disconnecting a Gas Insert. Things You'll Need. Tips and Warnings. Related Articles.

removing metal firebox

Article Summary. Method 1 of Remove all of the trim from around the fireplace insert. This may include removing some or all of the brick, rockwork, drywalland even framing from around the fireplace. You may have to use a hammer or mallet to break apart the framing materials, then use a crowbar to pry them away.Jagg Xaxx has been writing since His primary areas of writing include surrealism, Buddhist iconography and environmental issues.

Xaxx worked as a cabinetmaker for 12 years, as well as building and renovating several houses. If you have a defunct or dormant fireplace or woodstove in your home, or a derelict chimney from a heating device that is already gone, you can make a bit more space in your home and reduce the chances of leakage in your roof by pulling out the chimney.

A metal chimney is much easier to remove than a masonry chimney. Examine the length of metal chimney from where it comes through the roof to its peak.

How to Remove a Metal Fireplace Chimney From a Roof

Somewhere on this length there is probably a metal strap that is tightly wrapped around the perimeter of the pipe. If you can't see it, it is in the attic where the pipe passes through.

Pry this strap open using a screwdriver or the claw of a hammer and remove it from the pipe. Lift the top section of pipe off the section below it. Wiggle them around a bit if they are stuck together and they should come apart. Remove another section of pipe if it is still protruding above the roof line. If it isn't, you can proceed to fixing the roof, or you can remove the entire chimney all the way down to the basement.

Remove all the straps in the same way that you removed the first one, and the sections of pipe will come apart.

Slide a board that is longer than the diameter of the hole in your roof through the hole and hold it up against the underside of the hole. Screw the board on by driving screws down through the roof sheathing and into the board.

Measure the diameter of the hole in your roof and cut a disc of plywood to fit it using a jigsaw. Place the piece of plywood on top of the board that you screwed in, and screw the plywood disc to the board.

removing metal firebox

Separate the lower edge of the shingles that are above the hole from the shingles beneath them, being careful not to tear them. Put a piece of tar paper over the entire area, sliding it as far as possible under the shingles above and to both sides of the hole. Staple the tar paper down to the roof sheathing.

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